A Guide to Different Types of Indian Jewellery

Introduction

Indian jewellery is a testament to the country's rich cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and diversity. Over the centuries, India has been home to various dynasties and cultures, each contributing to the diverse tapestry of jewellery traditions. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the different types of Indian jewellery, each with its unique characteristics, symbolism, and regional variations. From the opulent Kundan to the intricate Meenakari, Indian jewellery is a celebration of artistry and tradition.

1. Kundan Jewellery

Kundan jewellery is renowned for its opulence and intricate craftsmanship. Originating in the royal courts of Rajasthan, this style is characterized by setting uncut gemstones, typically diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, in a framework of gold or silver foil. The setting is done without any visible claws or prongs, giving the jewellery a seamless, dazzling look. Kundan jewellery often features intricate enamel work on the reverse side to enhance its beauty.

Symbolism: Kundan jewellery symbolizes royalty, luxury, and extravagance. It is often worn on special occasions like weddings and celebrations.

2. Meenakari Jewellery

Meenakari is the art of enameling metal surfaces, creating intricate, colorful designs. This technique is commonly used in Indian jewellery, particularly in Rajasthan. Meenakari pieces feature vibrant colors and elaborate patterns, with enamel applied to the reverse side to create a contrasting effect. Silver, gold, and copper are commonly used metals for Meenakari work.

Symbolism: Meenakari jewellery is associated with celebration, joy, and festivity. The vivid colors represent the vibrant spirit of Indian culture.

3. Jadau Jewellery

Jadau is a traditional form of jewellery making that involves embedding uncut or semi-precious gemstones into a gold or silver base. This technique originated in the Mughal era and is still popular in Rajasthan. Jadau jewellery is known for its intricate designs and elaborate craftsmanship, making it a favorite choice for bridal jewellery.

Symbolism: Jadau jewellery represents the grandeur and elegance associated with royal traditions. It is often considered auspicious and worn on significant occasions.

4. Polki Jewellery

Polki jewellery is similar to Kundan jewellery, but it uses uncut diamonds instead of fully cut and polished ones. The diamonds are set in gold with no backing, allowing light to pass through, enhancing their brilliance. Polki jewellery often features intricate designs and is popular for bridal wear.

Symbolism: Polki jewellery symbolizes purity, brilliance, and timeless elegance. It is often worn by brides to signify their radiance on their special day.

5. Temple Jewellery

Temple jewellery gets its name from its historical association with temple dancers and deities. Originating in South India, this style features intricate motifs like deities, animals, and flowers, often inspired by temple architecture. It is typically crafted from gold and may incorporate precious or semi-precious stones.

Symbolism: Temple jewellery is associated with spirituality, tradition, and cultural heritage. It is often worn during religious ceremonies and festivals.

6. Thewa Jewellery

Thewa is a traditional Rajasthani jewellery art form that involves fusing 23-karat gold with colored glass to create intricate designs. The technique requires meticulous craftsmanship and is often used to make elaborate pendants, earrings, and bangles.

Symbolism: Thewa jewellery represents the rich cultural heritage of Rajasthan and the artistry of its craftsmen.

7. Navratna Jewellery

Navratna jewellery consists of nine gemstones, each representing one of the nine celestial bodies in Indian astrology. These gemstones are set in a specific arrangement to harness the positive energies associated with them. The most common gemstones used in Navratna jewellery are ruby, pearl, coral, emerald, sapphire, diamond, cat's eye, topaz, and garnet.

Symbolism: Navratna jewellery is believed to bring good luck, positive energy, and protection to the wearer. It is often worn as a talisman for various astrological benefits.

8. Lac Jewellery

Lac jewellery is crafted from lacquer, a resin-like substance derived from the resin of the lac insect. It is commonly used to create bangles, earrings, and necklaces. Lac jewellery is often embellished with mirrors, beads, and colorful threads to create intricate patterns.

Symbolism: Lac jewellery is a symbol of traditional Indian craftsmanship and is worn as a form of personal adornment.

9. Antique Jewellery

Antique jewellery encompasses a wide range of vintage pieces that may belong to different time periods and styles. These pieces may feature intricate filigree work, unique gemstone cuts, and designs that reflect the fashion trends of their era. Antique Indian jewellery is highly collectible and often passed down through generations.

Symbolism: Antique jewellery represents the historical and artistic heritage of India. It serves as a link to the past and a testament to the evolving styles of different time periods.

Conclusion

Indian jewellery is a treasure trove of tradition, artistry, and cultural significance. From the opulence of Kundan to the vibrant colors of Meenakari and the intricate designs of Temple jewellery, each style tells a story of India's rich heritage. Whether worn for special occasions or as a daily adornment, Indian jewellery continues to be a symbol of beauty, tradition, and personal expression, transcending time and cultural boundaries. The diversity of Indian jewellery reflects the diversity of the country itself, celebrating the multitude of cultures and traditions that make up the tapestry of India.